The Wondrous History of the Waffle (2024)

THIS ARTICLE IS ADAPTED FROM THE NOVEMBER 26, 2022, EDITION OF GASTRO OBSCURA’S FAVORITE THINGS NEWSLETTER. YOU CAN SIGN UP HERE.

Kitchen devices that have only one use are often gimmicky and rather silly, like the tabletop s’mores makers that Amazon is pushing as the hot appliance of the year. (Who eats that many s’mores?)

But I’d put up a fight if someone tried to take my waffle maker. Sure, it takes up half a kitchen cabinet, but it’s the rare kitchen appliance whose essential function can’t be replaced by some MacGyver-like creativity.

To me, waffles are the perfect food. They’re easy to make, not too sweet, and extremely versatile.

Perhaps that’s why, from medieval Europe to now, people have made room for a waffle iron in their kitchens. So this week, we’re exploring how the waffle has wound its way onto plates around the world.

Waffle Frolics

The Wondrous History of the Waffle (1)

Waffles have long been a familiar sight at the table. Even before the first-known waffle recipe was recorded in 1393, people had been cooking batter-based cakes and wafers quickly in special iron pans. Wafels, an early term for the food in Dutch and German, referred to their honeycomb-like shape, though the irons could also be cast to press shapes such as stars and flowers into the cakes.

After the Dutch introduced them to the American colonies, they became a local favorite. By the 18th century, waffles became so popular that, pre-Revolution, Americans held “waffle frolics” where the crispy treats were the main event.

Museum collections today hold waffle irons from past centuries, which look more like long-handled torture devices. The 20th-century electric waffle maker made things significantly easier, but it would take a trio of Californian brothers to make waffles an everyday breakfast, rather than a special treat.

Eggo Way

One day in spring 2020, I was halfway through a very long pandemic walk when I happened to find myself on Eggo Way. I walked along imagining how some poor soul named John Eggo must have been upset when a brand of frozen waffles popped up bearing his name.

But at the end of Eggo Way, I found a Kellogg’s factory. Curious, I walked home and started researching, only to find that Eggo waffles do indeed hail from my hometown of San José. But the name “Eggo” was never meant to apply to waffles.

Frank, Tony, and Sam Dorsa made mayonnaise. Starting their business in their mother’s house in 1932, they boasted that their version of the condiment used fresh eggs, leading them to name the fledgling company “Eggo.”

Riding off their mayonnaise success, the brothers soon turned to potato chips, then a powdered waffle mix. By the 1950s, though, frozen food was on the rise. Frank, the family inventor, engineered a giant waffle-iron carousel, and the Eggo frozen waffle was born.

Kellogg’s bought Eggo Food Products in the 1970s, and Eggo-brand chips and mayonnaise are no more. But Kellogg’s still makes waffles on Eggo Way, and Dorsa descendants are still in the food and beverage industry—in the form of a winery in the Santa Cruz mountains, La Rusticana d’Orsa.

Green Waffles

The Wondrous History of the Waffle (2)

CA Bakehouse consists of little more than a counter and a menu, but they proudly boast of being the home of “The Original Green Waffle.” In their storefront within San José’s Little Saigon, they sell the pandan-and-coconut waffles that have become a local specialty.

When I say these waffles are green, I’m not kidding. While the outside is a toasty brown, the fluffy inside is a vibrant, almost turquoise green, speckled with threads of shredded coconut.

They’re delicious enough to be eaten right out of hand, and Vietnamese bakeries often make them to order, with a line of smoking griddles ready to go. During Tết, or Vietnamese New Year, I follow my nose to festival food stalls: You can sniff out their intense coconut aroma anywhere.

The French likely brought waffles to Vietnam during the colonial period, where they got their delicate floral flavor and green hue from leafy pandan. CA Bakehouse proudly claims to be the first place to serve them in the United States, back in 1990. While they’ve been around for a while, to me, they’re the future of the waffle: beyond breakfast, beyond syrup, and beyond crispy, sweet, and comforting.

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The Wondrous History of the Waffle (2024)

FAQs

The Wondrous History of the Waffle? ›

The Origins of Waffles

What is the origin story of waffle? ›

The waffle in Old Greece was a fundamental variant of flat cakes, which were produced by baking the cakes between two metal plates. Obelios, as these cakes were called, weren't especially sweet, but their design developed over time as people started customizing the food.

What is the cultural significance of waffles? ›

Like many of Western civilization's finest achievements, the long and delicious history of waffles can be traced to ancient Greece, where Athenians cooked flat cakes called obelios between two metal plates. The word waffle is related to wafer, as in the Communion wafers that were a staple of early Christian fasts.

What is the history of the waffle recipe? ›

In the late 14th century, the first known waffle recipe was penned in an anonymous manuscript, Le Ménagier de Paris, written by a husband as a set of instructions to his young wife. While it technically contains four recipes, all are a variation of the first: Beat some eggs in a bowl, season with salt and add wine.

What is the history of the Liege waffle? ›

Legend has it that the Liège waffle was invented when the Prince-Bishop of Liège, a city in the Belgian region of Wallonia, asked his cook to create a pastry made with lots of sugar. The Prince-Bishop's sweet tooth paid off for the rest of us, because Liege waffles have become a mainstay of Belgian cuisine.

What is the waffle story? ›

A fun read for all ages that is based on the true story of Bill Bowerman, co-founder of Nike, who created the Waffle Sole using the waffle iron from his kitchen. The story is told from Wendy the Waffle Iron's perspective and shares her life's journey from the kitchen, to the garage and then great fame.

What are some interesting facts about waffles? ›

1 Waffles have been eaten since the 14th century. 2 Nike's first pair of sneakers, Waffle Trainers, were made using a real waffle iron. 3 “Waffle” descends from the Dutch word for “wafer.” 4 The world's biggest waffle was 8 feet long and weighed 110 pounds.

What does a waffle represent? ›

It can be used as a derogatory term; to describe, for instance, a candidate or politician who is considered to easily switch sides on issues to curry political favor (i.e. "flip-flop"), as an easily flipped breakfast food with the same name – hence the waffle famously used to represent President Bill Clinton in the ...

What is the history of Waffle Day? ›

The shift from the religious celebration to Waffle Day occurred because the Swedish Vårfrudagen, meaning "Our Lady's Day" or "the Day of our Lady" (the Feast of the Annunciation), sounds similar to våffeldagen ("waffle day") in faster speech, and so over time Swedes began calling it Waffle Day and celebrating by eating ...

What was the first name for waffles? ›

In Ancient Greece, and later during the Middle Ages, many variations of these cakes were made, which were called obleios (wafers). The first known “waffle” recipe was made in the late 14th century, but is was a waffle in name only, as it did not include a leavening agent.

Who brought waffles to America? ›

The Pilgrims are responsible for bringing waffles to America in 1620 after discovering them during their brief stop in Holland. Dutch immigrants popularized the dish in New Amsterdam, before it became New York.

What's the difference between a Belgian waffle and an old fashioned waffle? ›

The ingredients for both regular waffles and Belgian waffles are similar and include flour, milk, eggs, and butter or oil. However, Belgian waffles use egg whites to give a fluffier texture. Additionally, Belgian waffles have yeast in their recipe while regular waffles use baking powder.

Why is waffle named waffle? ›

Waffles eventually made their way to medieval Europe in the 13th century, where they became a popular treat during religious festivals. The term “waffle” itself is derived from the Dutch word “wafel,” which referred to the honeycomb pattern found on the cakes. But that was then…and this is now.

Why are waffles special in Belgium? ›

While regular old waffles are made from a typical pancake-like batter, Belgian waffles are made from a brioche dough. The secret ingredient in Belgian waffles is the pearl sugar, which gives the waffles a unique texture and slight, satisfying crunch.

What is the difference between a Liege waffle and a brussel waffle? ›

The Liège waffles are made from a yeast dough adapted from brioche bread dough. They're also sweeter and heavier than the Brussels waffles and have irregular edges, as compared to the Brussels waffles, which are rectangular or square with even sides.

Where does the word waffle originate from? ›

The Origins of Waffles

Waffles eventually made their way to medieval Europe in the 13th century, where they became a popular treat during religious festivals. The term “waffle” itself is derived from the Dutch word “wafel,” which referred to the honeycomb pattern found on the cakes. But that was then…and this is now.

What is the story of everything on a waffle? ›

Everything on a Waffle tells the story of a young, redheaded Primrose Squarp (not Everdeen) who lives in the fishing village of Coal Harbor, British Columbia. When her father fails to return from his ship one evening in the midst of a terrible storm, her mother follows him out into the sea on her small skiff.

Where did Waffle Day originate? ›

The holiday's origins are the result of "Varfrudagen," the Swedish word for "Our Lady's Day" (the Feast of the Annunciation, a March 25 Christian celebration of when the Virgin Mary was told she was pregnant), having a similar pronunciation to "Vaffeldagen," which means "Waffle Day."

Where does waffle game originate? ›

James Robinson, 37 from Drayton, Portsmouth came up with the idea for Waffle - a Wordle inspired daily puzzle, while doing the washing up. The name came about when he showed a diagram of his idea to his wife who immediately noted it's shape was similar to the popular foodstuff.

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